The most common switch has 2 metal prongs. Make sure your power wire is not connected to a power source, and ut your red power wire, strip back a bit on each end you just cut, and connect the 2 ends to your switch you can add additional wire if your switch is not conveniently near your cathodes. You can either solder the wires to the switch prongs, or you can use female spade crimp terminals and a crimp tool. Some switches are lighted switches, meaning they have a light that turns on when the switch is in the on position.
If you want this feature, you must run a black ground wire from the GROUND terminal on the switch to your grounding point on the car. The other 2 terminals will be: constant power, and accessory power. Constant power goes to your fuse, and accessory power to your cathodes. Stripping wire: Most of the wire you deal with in the car has strands of copper wound together, and a fairly durable plastic insulation.
Some crazy people claim they can strip wire with their teeth! Extending power wires: Cut the wire. Strip about half an inch of the wire on each end that you just cut. Find some new wire, cut it to the length that you want you extension to be. Strip both ends of this new wire. You now have 4 stripped ends of wires.
You can then solder the wires, and use heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to seal the connections. You could also use butt-connectors and a crimp tool.
Crimping wires: Strip the wire about a quarter to half of an inch. Insert into the terminal ring, spade, butt, etc. Insert the terminal into the crimp tool, and crimp!
You should be using a REAL crimping tool rather than pliers so that you get reliable crimps. After crimping, pull a bit on the wire to make sure it is snug. Connectors come in all different varieties and sizes. For safety, look for the insulated ones. By now you should have your fuse power wire running to a switch.
The other end of the switch runs to your positive wire on your cathode transformer. The black wire of the cathode transformer is grounded.
Mounting the transformer and cathode tubes is usually done with cable ties. Play around with the placement and see which gives you the best lighting effect. Try to keep the tubes out of the way of feet and out of plain sight. If you are mounting your cathodes in a different location where using cable ties is not an option, you can use a strong double-sided tape.
Or, if you are installing cathodes to your headliner for example, you can even use fishing line! There are many options that can vary by installation. Just be creative. Do not extend the white wires. Do not cut or extend the white wires which run between the cathode transformer and cathode tubes. For cold cathode lighting systems that contain two or more sections of lamps that are separated from each other, an interfeed connection is required.
From the last terminating lampholder and junction box of one section of the system, install one conduit run to the last terminating lampholder and junction box of the second section of the system. Keep the conduit 6 inches away from all other conduits. Install one high voltage GTO cable in the interfeed conduit. Connect one end of the GTO cable to the terminal screw inside one terminating lampholder then connect the opposite end to the second terminating lampholder.
When using metallic conduit for interfeed connections the conduit must be grounded bonded to the transformer enclosure housing. Maintain a distance of 6 inches minimum between secondary conduits and all other conduits, as well as other parallel, ferrous structures. Install one GTO cable per conduit only. Connect the end of the GTO cable to the terminal screw inside the terminating lampholder. Replace the porcelain cover, and nylon cap nut. In systems incorporating no junction box, as in illustration 6, run one conduit from the transformer enclosure to within 3 feet of each terminating lampholder.
Use absolutely no wire or cable pulling compounds. Attach aluminum flexible conduit to then lampholder end of conduit run. Pass this conduit a small way through the wall surface.
Install a nylon flexible conduit connector, slide a length of dielectric carrier tubing over the GTO to the connector. The dielectric carrier tubing extends from the nylon connector and passes through the socket cable entry hole. In systems incorporating P-K housings, pull GTO through all associated parts, and hex-crimp the spring assembly rivet to the end. Install the GTO strain relief.
Retract the GTO so that the spring assembly is properly seated in the glass housing. Cold Cathode Installation Instructions. With the transformer properly mounted in the enclosure housing, place the enclosure housing in the upright position with the primary side facing the primary feeder conduit and the secondary side facing the high-voltage GTO cable conduits.
The spacer blocks will provide ventilation to the underside of the enclosure housing and reduce the transmission of vibration to the mounting surface. Offering users a complete lighting solution, this 12in Dual Red Cold Cathode Kit includes a Molex connector with power splitter, boxed inverter, and 2 acrylic cathodes. Offering users a complete lighting solution, this 12in Dual Green Cold Cathode Kit includes a Molex connector with power splitter, boxed inverter, and 2 acrylic cathodes.
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